Old-School Manhattan Clam Chowder
The Great Chowder War of 1939
The history here is fascinating, and if you’re a fan of New England clam chowder, you might want to sit down for this. In 1939, a Republican assemblyman from Maine named Cleveland Sleeper actually introduced a bill to the state legislature that would have made it illegal to put tomatoes in Manhattan Clam Chowder. He called it a “culinary crime,” and the penalty he proposed? Forcing the offender to dig clams at high tide.
Growing up with New England roots, I was taught the same thing—that “Red” chowder was just a glorified vegetable soup. But my perspective shifted years ago when I visited an old-school lunch counter near the site of the former Fulton Fish Market. This wasn’t the thin, acidic soup you find in cans. This was a sophisticated, deep-sea treasure, influenced by the Portuguese and Italian immigrants who helped build New York’s waterfront (much like the San Francisco Cioppino would later define the West Coast).
This authentic Manhattan chowder recipe is my tribute to that 1930s Manhattan style. It’s about the “Red Side” of history, and I promise you, it’s every bit as worthy as its creamy cousin (or even our Vegan Manhattan ‘Clam’ Chowder).
Why Salt Pork Matters in Manhattan Clam Chowder
The secret diner cooks know is all about the fat. Many modern recipes use bacon, and while I love bacon, it brings a smoky flavor that can drown out the clams. True Americana right here is using salt pork.
Salt pork is essentially unsmoked bacon. When you render it down, it creates a neutral, silky fat base for your aromatics. It gives the chowder a luxurious “mouthfeel” without using a drop of dairy. If you can’t find salt pork, you can use unsmoked pancetta, but try to hunt down the real thing—it makes all the difference in achieving that old school clam chowder depth.
The Flavor Bridge for Tomato Based Clam Chowder
The biggest mistake people make with Manhattan Clam Chowder is letting the tomato take over. If it tastes like marinara sauce, you’ve gone too far.
The goal is to create a “flavor bridge” between the acidic tomatoes and the briny clams. We achieve this by:
- Sweating the Mirepoix: Don’t brown the vegetables. You want them soft and sweet to balance the brine.
- Dried Thyme and Bay: These two herbs are the historical backbone of the dish. They provide an earthy anchor that ties the sea and the land together.
- Clam Liquor: This is the “soul” of the soup. Use the liquid from steaming your fresh clams, and augment it with high-quality bottled clam juice. It ensures the ocean stays front and center.
Chef’s Tips for Perfection
- The Potato Trick: I don’t use flour to thicken this soup. Instead, I use Yukon Gold potatoes. About halfway through the simmer, I use the back of my spoon to crush a few of the potato cubes against the side of the pot. The released starch creates a naturally hearty body.
- The Overnight Rule: Just like a good chili or beef stew, this chowder is even better the next day. A night in the fridge allows the tomato acidity to mellow and the brine to integrate into every bite of potato.
- Don’t Overcook the Clams: Clams turn into “pencil erasers” if you boil them for 45 minutes. That’s why we steam them separately and add them at the very end. You want them tender, plump, and full of juice.
When you’re ready to serve, bring out the heavy ceramic bowls and a handful of classic oyster crackers. This isn’t just a meal; it’s a piece of regional American seafood recipes history that deserves a spot at your table.
Old-School Manhattan Clam Chowder
Ingredients
Instructions
In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, cook the diced salt pork over medium-low heat until the fat has rendered and the bits are golden brown and crispy.
Remove the crispy salt pork bits with a slotted spoon and set aside. In the rendered fat, add the onion, celery, carrots, and bell pepper. Sweat the vegetables for 8–10 minutes until translucent but not browned.
Stir in the minced garlic, dried thyme, and bay leaves, cooking for another minute until fragrant.
Add the hand-crushed tomatoes and their juices, along with the bottled clam juice. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer.
Add the diced potatoes. Cover and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. For a naturally thicker broth, press a few potato cubes against the side of the pot to break them down.
While the base simmers, place the scrubbed clams in a separate pot with a splash of water. Cover and steam over medium-high heat just until they open (about 5–8 minutes). Discard any that do not open.
Remove the clam meat from the shells (chop if they are large) and strain the remaining steaming liquid through a fine-mesh sieve or coffee filter to remove grit. Add both the clam meat and the strained liquid to the main pot.
Simmer everything together for just 2–3 minutes to meld the flavors. Taste for seasoning; the clams and salt pork often provide enough salt, but add black pepper or a pinch of salt if needed.
Remove bay leaves and serve hot, garnished with the reserved crispy salt pork bits and fresh parsley.