In the highlands of Oaxaca, the morning air is often thick with two distinct aromas: the earthy, fruity scent of dried chilies being prepared for the day’s mole, and the deep, invigorating smell of roasting coffee beans. This recipe for Grilled Veal Chops with Ancho-Coffee Rub is a tribute to that sensory marriage and is a standout even among the best veal chop recipes in my repertoire.

In Mexico, we treat the chili not just as heat, but as a complex fruit. By pairing the raisin-like sweetness of the chile ancho (CHEE-lay AHN-choh) with the acidic brightness of Mexican Altura coffee, we create what I call a “rub del desierto”—a desert rub that transforms an authentic Mexican veal recipe into a legendary meal.

How to Toast Dried Ancho Chilies: The Soul of the Rub

The most important lesson my abuela taught me was how to “wake up” a dried chili. When you buy your anchos, they should feel like soft leather or a large raisin. If they are brittle and snap in your hands, they are too old.

We use a technique called tatemado, or dry-toasting. By learning how to toast dried ancho chilies on a hot comal (or a cast-iron skillet), you release the oils that have been trapped during the drying process. You will smell it immediately—a deep, smoky perfume that fills the kitchen. But be careful! My mamá always said, “watch them like you watch a baby.” Just 10 or 15 seconds per side is all it takes. If they turn black and charred, they will become bitter, and there is no way to fix that.

Why Use a Mexican Coffee Meat Rub for Veal?

Veal is a beautiful, mild canvas that takes well to bold flavors. While many people only think of coffee as a drink, in Mexican kitchens, we recognize its power as a spice. This Oaxacan spice rub utilizes the acidity in the coffee grounds to help tenderize the surface of the meat, while the oils in the beans create a dark, sophisticated crust that contrasts perfectly with the tender, pale pink meat inside.

For this recipe, use a coarse grind for your coffee. If you prefer herbal notes over earthy coffee, you might enjoy my Hickory-Smoked Veal Chops with Lemon-Rosemary Infusion. A coarse grind provides a wonderful crunch that feels professional and intentional.

Cooking Grilled Veal Chops with Ancho-Coffee Rub

When you take these chops to the grill, you aren’t just looking at a timer; you are listening and smelling. You want to hear that initial sizzle—the Maillard reaction creating your crust. Because this rub contains a small amount of sugar and coffee, it can burn if left over direct flames for too long.

Prepare your grill for two-zone cooking (medium-high direct heat and a cooler indirect side). Sear them quickly to get that beautiful color, then move them to the cooler side of the grill to finish cooking through. This ensures the veal stays succulent and the rub remains flavorful rather than scorched.

Serving Suggestions

This dish is a celebration. To keep the meal authentic, I love to serve these chops alongside Mexican White Rice or simple grilled scallions (cebollitas). The richness of the veal and the smokiness of the rub also pair beautifully with a small glass of smoky Mezcal, much like my Spanish-Style Veal Chops with Romesco Sauce.

Letting the meat rest is the final act of respect. Give it ten minutes. This allows the juices to redistribute so that every bite is as tender as the first. ¡Buen provecho!